Walk down any beauty aisle or doom scroll for five minutes and you’ll be told you don’t need expensive skincare. Just find a “skin care dupe”. Our London dermatologist, Dr Bhate explains more.
But are skincare dupes actually good for your skin? And when do they fall short?
At No. 23 Skin, we see patients every day who are confused — not because they don’t care about their skin, but because there is too much advice and not enough context. As a dermatologist clinic in London, our role isn’t to tell you what to buy — it’s to help you understand what matters.
This guide shares what consultant dermatologists really think about skincare dupes, drawing on expert insight from Dr Ketaki Bhate, Consultant Dermatologist at No. 23, and our own clinical experience supporting patients across London. She was also featured in the BBC article on this point.
A skincare “dupe” is a lower-cost product designed to mimic a more expensive one — usually by highlighting similar ingredients such as:
Hyaluronic acid
Niacinamide
Ceramides
SPF filters
Dupes are most common for hydrating serums, cleansers and sunscreens, and far less reliable for prescription-level or active treatments.
Used well, they can absolutely support skin health. Used blindly, they can waste money — or worsen skin conditions.
According to Dr Ketaki Bhate, Consultant Dermatologist, not all skincare dupes are equal — and some are much easier to “copy” than others.
The product has one or two simple, well-studied ingredients
The goal is hydration, barrier support or gentle cleansing
The formulation doesn’t rely on complex delivery systems
Think: basic hyaluronic acid serums, gentle moisturisers, fragrance-free cleansers. BUT do your homework and check the ingredients and still buy from somewhere reputable – i.e. where you know there are governance procedures in place so you’re not buying from somewhere completely unregulated.
The product contains unstable or active ingredients (like retinoids or vitamin C)
Results depend on penetration, pH balance or sustained delivery
The skin condition is medical (acne, rosacea, pigmentation, eczema)
This is where dermatologist guidance becomes essential.
Luxury products often combine hyaluronic acid with multiple molecular weights, peptides, or antioxidants.
Budget dupes may include the same headline ingredient — but fewer supporting ones.
Dermatologist advice:
If your skin is generally healthy and you want hydration, an affordable hyaluronic acid serum can work well. If you’re dealing with acne, sensitivity or post-treatment skin, formulation quality matters more than price but seeking medical support is also important so you don’t aggrevate your medical concerns.
This is where dupes can shine.
Dermatologist advice:
A gentle, non-foaming cleanser from a supermarket or pharmacy can be just as effective as a premium brand — as long as it doesn’t strip the skin barrier or contain irritants. Don’t leave cleansers on the skin too long as this can cause issues.
Cleansing is about supporting skin function, not treating conditions.
Sun protection is non-negotiable.
Dermatologist advice:
A £6 SPF used daily is far better than a £40 SPF used occasionally. Budget SPFs can be excellent — provided they are broad-spectrum, SPF 30 or higher, and applied generously and regularly. We like Heliocare and La Roche Posay brands because they are well-evidenced.
This is especially important for skin cancer prevention, pigmentation control and post-treatment skin.
Active ingredients are where dermatologists see the most confusion.
Low-cost retinol products often contain:
Unstable formulations
Inconsistent concentrations
Irritating alcohol bases
This can lead to redness, breakouts or no results at all.
Vitamin C is notoriously unstable. A product that oxidises quickly may look effective but do very little.
Dermatologist advice:
If you’re using actives to treat acne, pigmentation or ageing — this is where seeing a dermatologist near you can save time, money and frustration.
If you’re experiencing any of the following, product swapping isn’t the answer:
Rosacea, redness or sensitivity
Pigmentation that keeps returning
Moles or lesions that have changed
Skin reacting unpredictably to products
At No. 23 Skin, our London dermatologists focus on diagnosis first. Skincare only works when it’s right for your skin.
We don’t believe in perfect skin.
We believe in informed skin health.
That means:
Enjoying skincare without fear
Using affordable products where they work
Knowing when expert care matters
Protecting your skin so you can live fully — in the sun, at work, through every life stage
Sometimes a dupe is enough. Sometimes it isn’t. A good dermatologist helps you tell the difference.
If you’re searching for a dermatologist in London or a dermatologist near me, No. 23 Skin offers:
Consultant-led dermatology
Evidence-based skincare advice
Medical and aesthetic care under one roof
A warm, human approach to skin health
Whether you need reassurance, diagnosis or a smarter skincare plan, we’re here to support your skin — not overwhelm it.
Book a dermatology consultation today.
Helen & Dr Cherry
CoFounders
02039411815
This article is for general information only and does not replace a personalised dermatology consultation. Always seek professional advice for medical skin concerns.
Follow us
no23skin