The Most Common Skincare Questions

As the specialists in skin health, you can be sure that our dermatologists get asked a lot of skincare questions. Here we have whittled down and answered the 5 most common, so you can embark on a healthy skin journey.

What is the correct order to apply skincare products?

The secret is to keep it simple:

In the morning: cleanse your skin using tepid water, gentle cleanser.

Pat dry, then add any active serum (if you need this): eg: Vit C serum, Hyaluronic acid.

Apply and moisturizer approx. 10-15mins afterwards.

Then sunblock SPF 30 or 50

In the evening: Cleanse your skin

Pat dry, then add an active serum (retinoid/ Vit C/ Hyaluronic acid) – only use an individual active once per day, and a maximum of two actives per day.

Apply a moisturizer 10-15 mins afterwards.

Then sleep…

Why is Vitamin C so beneficial in skin care?

1. Vitamin C is a powerful anti-oxidant. Environmental factors such as solar radiation, pollution and smoking can damage the skin by causing oxidative stress. Vitamin C neutralises oxidative stress.
2. Vitamin C prevents photo-ageing by reducing the production of free radicals. Free radicals cause reduction in collagen production, breakdown of collagen and accumulation of elastin fibres which leads to deep wrinkles and coarse texture associated with sun damage as well as broken capillaries and uneven pigmentation.
3. Vitamin C also boosts the immune cells in the skin’s epidermal layer and reduces the risk of UV-induced skin cancers.
4. Vitamin C also replenishes the levels of Vit E which also increases collagen production. Both therefore, have a synergistic action anti-ageing agents.
5. Vitamin C also reduces melanin synthesis by blocking the pathway from conversion of Tyrosine to melanin. It has been effective in reducing pigmentation, including Melasma.
6. Vitamin C has an excellent safety profile and is therefore is a popular cosmeceutical agent. The challenge remains in finding the most stable and permeable form so that it can achieve the most optimal results.

Niacinamide is everywhere. Is it worth a try?

Niacinamide is also called Nicotinamide or Vitamin B3. It is Water soluble and is effective topically and also as a vitamin taken orally. It has many skin health benefits.

• It promotes ceramide and elastin production which is important for their barrier function, maintaining hydration, reducing inflammation by preventing harmful products to penetrate the skin.
• It regulates and maintains oil production in the skin helping in acne skin.
• It also regulates and reduces pigmentation and is an anti-inflammatory agent used in chronic inflammatory skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis rosacea, reducing the redness and blotchiness of the skin.

Niacinamide has anti-oxidant free radical fighting properties preventing UV-induced DNA damage to the skin.

Because of it’s excellent safety profile, it is well tolerated by most skin types.

Which skincare products don’t mix well together?

Mixing acids and retinols can be too stimulating/ harsh for the skin, so try to balance these ingredients out by applying only one of them a day, rather than all at once.

Stick to vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night – never the other way around as retinol sensitises your skin in daylight, whereas at night it has time to absorb properly. Store Vitamin C in a dark place.

Avoid using vitamin C and AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) together on the same day. They can over-stimulate the skin and can cause sensitivity.

How can I stop breakouts?

There are no quick fixes, but you can calm your skin by sticking to simple measures:

• Don’t use too many skin products
• Stick to healthy foods and hydrate your skin with good non-oily moisturisers and plenty of daily water intake.
• Don’t wear thick make-up
• Always wash your face before going to bed
• Shower after exercise
• Don’t wash with too hot or too cold water. Stick to luke-warm water/ tepid water.
• Use an anti-bacterial face wash/ cleanser (benzoyl peroxide, Salicylic acid)
• Don’t over exfoliate: this can damage your skin’s natural barrier function and cause more inflammation and infection making your acne worse. Maybe exfoliate once a week if needed. This is not essential especially if you are using a retinoid and also washing your face daily.
• Products containing Retinoids, Salicylic acid, Niacinamide are good for acne.

If you need medical support, longer courses of oral antibiotics can help with acne. In severe cases, prescriptions of a strong  version of retinoids can also help to improve acne significantly.

If you have any questions about skin, then do get in touch. hello@23skin.co.uk

Dr Cherry x

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used in the place of medical advice. If you are struggling with a skin condition or a medical concern, please see your GP, dermatologist, or get in touch with us for specific advice.