What Skincare is Worth It (and what isn’t)

What Skincare is Worth It (and what isn’t)

There’s a quiet shift happening in skincare: does any of this actually work?

Because behind the packaging, the promises and the price tags, the truth is simpler than the industry would like you to believe.

Most skincare doesn’t fail because you chose the wrong brand.
It fails because it may never have been designed to treat your specific skin properly in the first place. And that’s where dermatology comes in.

The uncomfortable truth: skincare is largely unregulated marketing

Walk into Space NK or scroll Cult Beauty and you’ll see ingredients positioned like miracle cures: peptides, growth factors, exosomes, “medical-grade” actives.

Here’s the reality:

• Most over-the-counter skincare is not required to prove clinical efficacy in the way medical treatments are
• Concentrations of active ingredients are often too low to create meaningful change (especially in the UK where anything that is medical-grade and strong is only available under prescription)
• Formulations may not penetrate deeply enough to affect skin biology

What skincare is worth it

Let’s cut through the noise.

If your goal is healthier, stronger, more resilient skin — the evidence consistently points to a small number of things that actually work.

1. Sunscreen (non-negotiable)

If you spend money anywhere, spend it here.

Daily SPF is the single most proven intervention in dermatology for:

• Preventing skin cancer
• Reducing pigmentation
• Slowing collagen breakdown and visible ageing

Long-term studies show consistent sunscreen use significantly reduces photoageing (wrinkles) and precancerous lesions. Check out our guide to our dermatologist-recommended sunscreens here. 

2. Prescription-strength actives (when appropriate)

This is where a dermatology consultation separates itself from beauty.

Ingredients like retinoids (tretinoin), azelaic acid, and certain antibiotics or hormonal treatments:

• Are clinically tested
• Work at therapeutic concentrations
• Target specific skin conditions (acne, rosacea, pigmentation)

You simply cannot replicate these results with over-the-counter alternatives — albeit weaker versions do exist.

3. A small number of evidence-backed topicals are skincare that’s worth it

If you want a streamlined routine, this is it:

• Retinoids (collagen stimulation, acne, texture)
• Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (antioxidant protection, pigmentation support – take care if you have breakout-prone skin as this can worsen it)
• Niacinamide (barrier support, inflammation reduction)

That’s your core.

4. In-clinic treatments (done properly)

For concerns like acne scarring, pigmentation, or skin laxity, topical skincare has limits.

This is where treatments like:

• Laser therapy
• Medical-grade peels
• Microneedling

come in — with significantly stronger evidence for structural skin change.

But only when used appropriately, and as part of a wider plan.

What isn’t worth your money (most of the time)

This is where people overspend — and underdeliver.

1. “Medical-grade” skincare (without medical oversight)

This term isn’t regulated.

It often means:

• Higher price point
• Slightly higher concentrations
• Stronger branding

Not necessarily better results.

2. Trend-led ingredients

Exosomes. Growth factors. Stem cell serums.

Interesting? Yes.
Proven in large-scale human studies? Not yet.

You’re paying to be early — not to be effective.

3. Overcomplicated routines

Ten-step routines don’t equal better skin.

In fact, they often:

• Disrupt your skin barrier
• Increase irritation
• Cancel out active ingredients

More products ≠ more results.

The skin health axis: where your money might be better spent

One of the most overlooked areas in skincare isn’t topical at all.

It’s internal.

Emerging research into the gut-skin axis shows clear links between:

• Inflammation
• Microbiome health
• Acne, rosacea and eczema

As we explored in our guide to the gut-skin connection, supporting your skin through:

• Diet
• Stress management
• Sleep

can be just as impactful as what you apply topically. The fundamentals of overall health really are the first port of call. 

And often more sustainable.

So where should you start?

You don’t need more products. You need a plan.

At No. 23 Skin, we see the same pattern every day — well-informed women who’ve tried everything, but never had their skin properly assessed.

Because skincare sold in isolation often falls short. Skin is an organ. It needs diagnosis, not guesswork.

Why a dermatologist is the best first investment

Before you spend another £200 on a serum, ask yourself:

• Do I actually know what my skin needs? Ask this whilst looking in the mirror
• Or am I still experimenting?

A dermatology consultation gives you:

• A clear diagnosis
• A targeted treatment plan
• Access to clinically proven options
• Long-term strategy (not short-term fixes)

It’s the difference between trying products and treating skin.

And ultimately, it saves you money.

Meet our dermatologists.

The bottom line

Good skin is built through:

• Consistency
• Evidence-based treatment
• Understanding your skin as it changes through life

We’re not here to tell you to throw everything away, we’re here to offer support and advice on how to get the most out of your skin and skincare.

At No. 23 Skin, we believe in skin that’s well cared for — not overcomplicated, not over-treated, and not driven by trends. Just supported, properly, by people who know what they’re doing.

Because your skin is something you live in. Not something you need to fix.

Helen
CoFounder
No.23 Skin
02039411815

NB: this post is for information only. If you need specific advice for your skin or if you have any medical concerns then please get in touch or see your GP.